Sophisticated Living Indianapolis

SEP-OCT 2018

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With impeccable produce from CRG's own urban farm, and meats from such respected sources as Gunthorp Farms and Miller Poultry, the provenance is indisputable. Whereas previous iterations of the menu had proclaimed Roberts' personal predilections— Middle East, Mexico, Asia—here the influences are more intermingled; nowhere is this more evident than the vegetarian spaghetti squash dish, which includes curry, tofu, English peas and peppadew-scallion relish. This is a discreetly eclectic plate, harmonious, savory and multi-textured. The fact that it doesn't wear any particular national origin on its sleeve, being instead the result of a well-travelled palate, is further testament to how Roberts has matured as a chef over the past decade. Other dishes of note include a richly textured burrata with crostini and—one of the outstanding flavors of the evening— Farmer Rosie's tomatoes, which have been lightly roasted to further concentrate the already intense flavors. This dish alone is worth standing in line for on a busy evening. Also splendidly executed is a dish of perfectly seared scallops with a concentrated salsa verde containing just the right amount of cilantro and, most surprisingly, compressed watermelon. is latter ingredient was, for this writer, the other single most intriguing and intense flavor element of an impressive flight of dishes. It represents the very essence of the freshest watermelon, without the water, and is quite stunning. With a short but well-considered offering of desserts, including Roberts' by now famous Chocolate Stout Terrine and textbook Bread Pudding, as well as an approachable wine list, Mesh continues to offer a nicely rounded menu that blends broad appeal with impeccable execution. "We always strive to provide excellent service, innovative cuisine, and a passion for hospitality," says General Manager Anton Brunbauer. "ese are crucial qualities that enable Mesh to be the ideal place for a date night, business dinner, or a Sunday brunch." Combined with CRG's usual elevated levels of service, this downtown destination continues to set the standard for good taste and consistency. We'll be back in eight years to check in on the next iteration. sl For more information, visit meshrestaurants.com. slmag.net 85

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