Sophisticated Living Indianapolis

NOV-DEC 2018

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Written by Neil Charles / Photography by Andrew Kung TONY'S of INDIANAPOLIS Steakhouse ser ves serious food for serious lovers of food. e first of our many audible murmurs of approval on a recent visit to Tony's comes with the arrival of the first dish, a crab cake so generous, loose and packed with recently harvested blue crab flavor that I am palpably transported back a dozen years to a bustling eatery in Maryland where this very dish was its specialty. Tony's crab cake is a thing of beauty and just one of the many must-eat items that set this latest arrival on Indy's steakhouse scene well and truly apart from the crowd. It is obvious that the big chunks of anatomically recognizable meat have never seen the inside of a tin or a freezer. ere is no filler to speak of; gravity alone holds this glorious edifice together. Moreover, this crab cake is baked, not fried, and there is no attempt to disguise its flavor with anything other than more crab. It's a masterpiece. 78 slmag.net

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