Sophisticated Living Indianapolis

NOV-DEC 2018

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Ricci and his chef, Brian Dougher ty, have a serious approach to meat, bordering upon the obsessive. "All of our animals are of a specific age and weight range," explains the chef, "with a required degree of marbling." e proof of the pudding, they say, is in the eating; there is no better test of quality than the New York strip. Tony's strip, I can categorically state, is one of the very finest such pieces of beef I have consumed in a restaurant. As he brings it to the table, Morgan insists that we will not need steak knives. He's right. A butter knife suffices. Again, that purity of perfectly aged beef shines through, and it's a revelation. Served simply without embellishment, this fine cut of meat is perfect on its own, but I am a sucker for a classic Béarnaise. Tony's does not disappoint. ere are also seafood options for those looking for something lighter. A tender fillet of organic Scottish salmon arrives with a green bean salad and citrus vinaigrette; it's simple, but perfectly cooked. Pasta pescatore, Tony's homage to Italy's classic cioppino, delivers a healthy serving of fresh shellfish in a lobster saffron broth. It would make a nice lunch with a bottle of rosé. With a well-rounded wine list and a generous handful of signature cocktails, Tony's delivers the kind of dining experience that will appeal to a broad clientele. Although meeting rooms are available, this is not your typical expense-account steakhouse. Tony's offers serious food for serious lovers of food; we are already planning a return visit to demolish a few more crab cakes. sl For more information, visit 85

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