Sophisticated Living Indianapolis

JAN-FEB 2019

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Not so long ago teetering on the precipice of the endangered list, the sea bass has made quite a resurgence recently; at Nesso it is served simply roasted with a basil aioli and fennel, a perennially classic accompaniment. Showing an equally deft touch with the starches, Chef Layton dishes up a wonderfully creamy mushroom risotto with a rich, melting slice of foie gras torchon, while a plate of delicate gnocchi arrives in a sauce of goat cheese, fried sage and hazelnuts. It is a subtle and moreish dish, nicely complemented by a couple of savory chicken meatballs. Desserts from expert in-house pastry chef Hattie McDaniel might include a trio of cannoli, an intense and deconstructed tiramisu or a unique take on glazed donuts. Tasked with finding suitable vinous and spirited matches for the innovative menu, general manager and sommelier Roddy Kirschenman has assembled an outstanding wine list drawing exclusively on Italian producers and regions, including a high percentage of wines that might not be familiar to the casual diner. "is restaurant is unique for me in that I was able to compile a wish list of wines I wanted to see on the list and put the word out to suppliers," explains the sommelier. "Being a strictly Italian list, it encourages diners to think outside their comfort zone and perhaps find their new favorite." With a selection that includes a rosé of black vermentino from Liguria, Barolos from Giacosa and Conterno, and Valpolicella from Dal Forno and Quintarelli, this might not be the wine list for everyone, but it is most certainly a list for those who love great Italian wines. And that is Nesso in a nutshell. e concept may be bold, but with Italy's popularity as a vacation destination, many diners will have visited Italy's coastal regions and experienced a different kind of Italian dining. Nesso, with its lighter touch, less emphasis on tomatoes and heavy sauces, and a thoughtful approach to fish, provides a stylish alternative to what is widely considered the norm. And for those who have yet to visit the Amalfi coast in the early summer and enjoy its bucolic pleasures, here is a little taste to whet your appetite. sl For more information, visit nesso-italia.com. Tartufo Di Cioccolato is sweet, intense and full of flavor slmag.net 81

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