Sophisticated Living Indianapolis

MAR-APR 2019

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Occupying a compact 2,000 square feet, Goose the Market has resisted the inevitable pressure to grow too big too fast. In response to huge demand, a production facility, the Smoking Goose, was added in 2011; two years ago, owners Chris and Mollie Eley opened a second retail outlet, Oca, a sausage and sandwich counter, at Sun King Brewery in downtown Indianapolis. If Goose's ambition and achievement now seem inevitable in hindsight, the direction the market would eventually take was perhaps less than crystal clear at the beginning. "Some people thought we should be selling paper towels and pantry staples," recalls Mollie about opening in an unlikely location on Delaware Street. Central to Goose's philosophy, and what sets this unique charcuterie apart from the mainstream, is respect for the farm animal. "We use the whole animal, not just the prime cuts like steaks or chops," explains Chris. "I made a nose-to-tail sausage with pork shoulder, but included liver, heart and belly, too. I really liked it, but I didn't know if guests would like an everything-but-the-kitchen- sink sausage. Turns out, folks liked it so much they came back asking for it again and again and now Kitchen Sink Sausage is one of our regulars." Unlike many larger commercial charcuteries, Goose's products are strictly local and seasonal. "Our house recipes start with what comes in from the farms," he continues. "What's in season and grown or raised carefully: that's the most important ingredient." Twelve years in, the Goose experience has finally come to Carmel. With the unveiling of Sun King Spirits, a new opportunity has arisen for independent restaurants to showcase their wares without the financial burden of opening a fully-fledged eatery. A longtime favorite with beer drinkers in Indianapolis and beyond, Sun King was the first local producer to take craft brewing out of the pub and into the broader market, challenging the mass-produced brands at their own game and stealing a sliver of their business. While craft charcuterie might not enjoy the same breadth of acceptance as craft beer, Goose's trajectory has somewhat mirrored that of the brewery, gradually building momentum and acceptance from a wider audience. e partnership is the result of a long friendship between the respective business owners. "It's not difficult to put out great food," says Chris, "but developing the relationships and culture is what gives the food meaning and brings people together." Winter Farro Salad 80 slmag.net

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