Sophisticated Living Indianapolis

JUL-AUG 2019

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Designed to attract younger, more adventurous diners from further aeld, the new menu oers a diverse range of dishes that draw heavily on the gastronomic riches of this unique coastal region. "It's a mixture of African, Creole and French traditions with a lot of seafood and bold •avors that we don't necessarily have in our local cuisine," says the owner. "It's the freshest ingredients prepared with very traditional techniques." Chef Dean Sample, a veteran of local restaurants including Meridian Restaurant & Bar, is thorough in his research, visiting the Low Country at every opportunity. "I try to eat at all the best places for traditional food, ranging from the hole-in-the-wall joints to the James Beard award restaurants," he says. Although the cooking might appear simple, there are often many steps involved, lending complexity and depth to sauces and preparations. Fish bellies are smoked before being added to stock; the sauce for the redsh is built on Gulf shrimp shells, while the •esh of the shrimp makes its way into the nished dish. Although Chef Dean often uses a roux as a base, it is a far lighter treatment than one might find in traditional southern cooking: additional thickening comes from blending the mirepoix of onion, carrot and celery after a long and slow braise. Œere is also a generous use of spices usually found in Indian cuisine, such as cumin, coriander and allspice, that are also a staple of Island and Creole cookery. "Having one focal point sets us apart from the crowd," the chef explains. "You see that regional focus a lot in foreign cuisines, but not so much in American dining, because here it's such a culinary melting pot." 88 slmag.net

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