Sophisticated Living Indianapolis

JUL-AUG 2019

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Page 94 of 131

Many dishes on this ambitious menu dazzle with their profound avors, refined spicing and melting textures. The shrimp and grits is an absolute standout: the sauce velvety with just a perfect degree of heat; the grits from Weisenberger Mill in Kentucky are perfectly al dente, while house-made tasso ham lends a savory, subtly smoky note to the proceedings. •ere's an utterly more-ish whipped pimento cheese with n'juda, accompanied by pickled okra and the pu-est pork rinds I have ever seen in these parts. Although there are only three desserts, they are all indispensable; the coconut pot de crème, a u„y, irresistible confection, is impossible to abandon once tasted. "Like eating sunshine" is how the owner describes it, and she's right. While the restaurant is only open for dinner and drinks, lunch is served six days a week next door at the Northside Kitchenette, a light and airy space opened in 2010. O„ering a lighter menu of sandwiches, salads and breakfast dishes from eleven to three, it's a popular eatery with the mostly local crowd. In addition, the more recently added Nook serves a tempting selection of made- to-order pizzas and pasta dishes in the evening. sl For more information, visit,, and 93

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