Sophisticated Living Indianapolis

JAN-FEB 2016

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Traditional and contemporary pasta is a focal point of Sangiovese's concise menu. Te Bolognese sauce, served over house-made fettuccine, is exemplary, with a depth of favor that takes it to the next level. Linguine con Vongole is a long-time favorite of the legions of regular diners, evoking Liguria with its sunshine and sandy beaches. A traditionalist in such matters, my preference lies towards the exemplary lasagna, but there is something here for all palates. Spice and acidity have always played a major role in the cooking here; veal piccata with capers and lemon practically leaps around the mouth, while the Pollo Alla Siciliana is the perfect encapsulation of the Mediterranean in a mouthful with capers, olives, wine and tomatoes all vying for one's attention. Even the most robust-looking dishes are light and balanced, encouraging guests to eat more, and just a bit more; but make sure not to overdo things on the pasta because then you won't have room for the lightest, fufest and most ethereal Tiramisu in town. sl Sangiovese is located at 2727 East 86th St. in Ironworks at Keystone, 757-5913. Open at 5 p.m. daily, closing at 9 p.m. Sunday, 10 p.m. Monday through Tursday, and 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. For more information, visit sangioveseristorante.com. Tiramisu slmag.net 93

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