Sophisticated Living Indianapolis

JUL-AUG 2012

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Were he alive today, Chef Raffaele Esposito might well not recognize much of what these days passes for pizza. For it was in 1889 that Esposito, in honor of Margherita, the Queen Consort of Italy, created a unique pie using ingredients representing the three colors of the Italian flag: tomatoes for red, cheese for white and basil for green. It was, incidentally, also the first time that cheese had been used on pizza. Tus was born one of the world's most instantly recognizable dishes, the Margherita, a creation whose influence has spread far and wide over the decades. While the great American pizza has been steadily evolving into a platform for all things edible (buffalo chicken, anyone?), back in Naples, a rearguard action by concerned restaurateurs has ensured that the original now has some sort of legal and cultural recognition. Te True Neapolitan Pizza Association only recognizes two incarnations: the Margherita and the Marinara, and has codified not only the oven type, temperature and type of tomatoes, but even the direction in which sauce is to be applied. And just in case that wasn't enough regulation, true Neapolitan Pizza, now officially recognized by the EU, may only be rolled out with the fingers. 84 slmag.net

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