Sophisticated Living Indianapolis

JUL-AUG 2017

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an Alsatian meal a la Hemingway–beer, pommes à l'huile and sausage–albeit at a far higher fare than Hem paid in his day. Hemingway often drank with fellow writer F. Scott Fitzgerald at the Hôtel Ritz Paris (15 Place Vendôme; ritzparis. com). In 1944, Hemingway "liberated" the bar from the Nazis in cahoots with a group of displaced soldiers, ordering a round of champagne for every patron and thereby prompting the spot to henceforth be known as Bar Hemingway. Fresh off of a four- year, $400 million property-wide renovation, the revamped bar is helmed by the charming duo of Colin Field and Roman Devaux. Popular among Americans, the atmosphere is courteous and lively, and ladies' drinks are presented with a delicate white rose balanced on the rim of the glass. Opened on anksgiving Day in 1911, Harry's New York bar claims to be the birthplace of the Bloody Mary in 1921. A popular hangout for "Lost Generation" writers of the 1920s, George Gershwin is purported to have composed An American In Paris there. e mahogany bar and wall paneling are original; the latter is now plastered with pennants hailing from American colleges and universities. Given my affinity for Midnight in Paris, we included a dinner at Maxim's on our itinerary even though it isn't known as a Hemingway haunt. Although the food didn't knock our socks off, the service was outstanding and the ambiance in the Art Nouveau institution, founded as a bistro in 1893 by Maxime Gaillard, and since frequented by countless celebrities and royals, made it a worthwhile stop. Other stops of note for the literary-minded traveler include Café le Dome (108 Boulevard du Montparnasse); Closerie des Lilas (171 Boulevard du Montparnasse); Café de Flore (172 Boulevard Saint-Germain), one of the oldest coffeehouses in Paris; and Les Deux Magots (6 place Saint-Germain-des-Pres), which opened in 1875 and was a favorite of American artists for decades. One of the best places for people watching, the café's terrace overlooks the church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, founded in the 6th century. After spending a few short days and nights eating and drinking our way around the City of Lights, it became that much easier to understand the affectionate nostalgia pervading Hemingway's posthumously published memoir about being a struggling young expatriate journalist and writer in Paris. "If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast." sl 61 Les Puces flea market A meal at Maxim's is a must for fans of Midnight in Paris. Located in the 7th arrondissement, les Cocottes offers traditional recipes cooked in Staub Dutch ovens.

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