Sophisticated Living Indianapolis

JAN-FEB 2018

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Probably the most satisfying way to approach Provision's menu of shareable plates, salads and robust protein dishes is to take a seat at the chef 's tasting bar and let Chef Aaron make the decisions for you. At a recent dinner, we especially relished the other-worldly king crab served on toasted brioche with a Thai chile beurre blanc and Serrano pepper. The sweet- savory-spicy combination of flavors hit all the right spots in perfect harmony. Equally impressive was the seared foie gras, served with charred onions and accompanied by a sweetly spicy cake and a sweet-tart preserved-lemon-and- orange marmalade. A staple of Moroccan cookery, preserved lemon brings the fragrance and intensity of citrus without the acidity. To satisfy our carnivorous cravings, a tender lamb loin chop from Indiana's master of sheep, Viking Lamb, was served with a perfectly judged reduction and a side of decadent Robuchon potatoes, one of the culinary world's most indulgent tributes to the humble spud. Before eventually running out of steam, we were also treated to the three-week dry-aged, grass-fed prime rib with a potato-bacon terrine, followed by a selection of artfully crafted desserts, star of which was the revelatory Peanut Butter Bombe, featuring a banana-cream-pie ice cream bordering upon the transcendent. With a solid wine list featuring an accessible selection of bottlings, and an assortment of creative and well-executed cocktails, Provision delivers on all counts. Service is friendly, well-informed and unobtrusive; in a town where there is a growing shortage of quality restaurant professionals, Provision has secured the services of a top-notch crew. Downstairs, at ground level, breakfast and lunch are now served at Rize, the latest CRG property, soon to be featured in these pages. sl Provision is located at 2721 East 86th Street. For more information, call 317.843.6105 or visit www.provision-restaurant.com. slmag.net 85

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