Sophisticated Living Indianapolis

JUL-AUG 2018

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Page 79 of 135

Situated in what arguably may be the most desirable spot in the city, at the corner of Mass Ave and Vermont Street, Hedge Row has hit the ground running with flawlessly executed wood-grilled cooking that combines depth of flavor with straight-from-the-soil vibrancy, executed with panache and technical know-how by Executive Chef Brad Gates and his seasoned crew. Served up by knowledgeable and enthusiastic staff in a setting that's infectiously lively, Hedge Row has immediately established a new benchmark for casual fine dining in downtown Indianapolis. e farm-to-table movement is in full swing here in Indiana. All across the state, small independent restaurants are busily serving up delicious food sourced from outstanding local growers; farmers' markets are booming and even the supermarket chains have hopped on the "local" bandwagon. For a city that was once a test market for giant corporate chains, Indianapolis' trend towards independence and sustainability is gathering surprising momentum, but prospects haven't always looked so rosy. Back in 2004, when Hugo Matheson and Kimbal Musk opened their first Kitchen restaurant in Boulder, here in Indianapolis we were recoiling from the collapse of the independent dining scene and staring at the dismal prospect of a future dominated by faceless chains. Written by Neil Charles / Photography by Michelle Craig REAL FOOD FOR REAL PEOPLE Hedge Row raises the bar 78

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